Tetons for Two The Tetons offer great backcountry trails for couples to get away from it all By Dina Mishev
Hiking with the Grand Tetons in the distance
I am not expecting a romantic day at all. Hiking up Hanging Canyon in Grand Teton National Park, we’d be sweating, exhausted, and, well, it being a hot July day and the hike being out in the open, sweating some more. But then there is a moose mom and her mooselet no more than five minutes up the trail. So cute. And a hillside blanketed in wildflowers (mostly yellow explosions of arrow-leafed balsam root) that looks just like the wildflower-covered hillsides that, as a child, I dreamt about running through hand-in-hand with David Hasselhoff. So romantic. Our final destination is a glacially formed, otherworldly-green speck of a lake at the canyon’s far end. So primordial. Especially since we have it all to ourselves. Lying down on grass softer than any featherbed, it’s not difficult to imagine we’re the last two people on the planet. Two very sweaty last people, but who cares when there’s no one else around?
While national parks have been a favorite family vacation for years – my family made sure to hit at least a few every summer – they can be surprisingly couple-compatible too. If you know where to go. Here are three hikes, at three difficulty levels, you and yours can do to get away from it all.
Easy: Phelps Lake
A 1.2-mile meander from the Death Canyon trailhead through dense pine and aspen forest leads to a ridgetop 700-feet above Phelps Lake. The ridgetop itself is heavily treed – making it ideal for concealed canoodling – but occasional breaks allow for lake views. Claim a rock throne off to the left end of this overlook area and watch as cloud shadows stain the lake. Or, hike down to the lake to claim your own little beachlet. It’s no Waikiki, but there are few patches of sand hidden along the lakeshore that are perfect-for-two size.
A campsite built for two
And, because Phelps Lake is at a relatively low elevation (7,000 feet instead of 9,000 or 10,000 feet), taking a quick dip isn’t as cold as it could be.
For couples who equate camping with cuddling, Phelps Lake is the most accessible backcountry lakeside camping area. There are only a handful of sites here however, so reserve early. Unlike the huge campground at Jenny Lake, Phelps Lake has no facilities and you won’t be able to see, or hear, your neighbors. But we can’t guarantee an inquisitive deer or moose won’t drop by.
Medium: Solitude Lake
Don’t let the hordes of people at South Jenny Lake, the starting point for this hike, fool you. Most never make it more than a mile from the parking lot: that’s how you can actually have some solitude at Solitude Lake.
You could start your hike from the parking lot, but why when there’s a boat shuttle that cuts off two miles? (Making the hike 14 instead of 16 miles.) After disembarking at the boat dock on Jenny Lake’s western shore, follow signs for Inspiration Point/Cascade Canyon. The climb up to Inspiration Point is steep, but take heart that it is the hardest of the entire hike. And the views from the top are truly inspiring. From Inspiration Point continue westward and into Cascade Canyon, one of the most prominent canyons in the park and very visible from the Jenny Lake parking lot. Aside from a well-marked fork about four miles into the canyon, it is a straight shot.
While there’s no disputing this hike is long, valleys of wildflowers, plenty of wildlife – imagine moose and bear – and up-close-and-personal views of the park’s biggest peaks keep you distracted. Even if they don’t, when you finally spill out onto Solitude Lake you’ll see the effort was worth it.
Bear in the Park
A dot of blue surrounded by lush grasses and flowers, it is perfect snuggling scenery. And, after having burned all those calories, the picnicking possibilities are endless. Too bad a pint of Ben & Jerry’s wouldn’t last the trip up. (Trust me, I know from experience.)
Difficult: Hanging Canyon and Ramshorn Lake
The trail up Hanging Canyon isn’t officially maintained, but receives enough traffic to stay in good shape. (Although I don’t know when all these other hikers hit it. Each time I’ve been up the canyon, it’s been deserted.) The beginning of the trail is unmarked however, so you’ll have to keep your eyes peeled. From the String Lake parking lot, near Jenny Lake Lodge, a Ritz-in-the-woods romantic retreat, follow the signs for Cascade Canyon. After a mile and the third small log bridge, there is a gigantic, and I can’t stress the “gigantic” part enough, tree on your right. A small arc of rocks marks the bottom of the trail up Hanging Canyon.
This trail isn’t difficult because of its length – only about six miles roundtrip – but because of its steepness. Once out of the trees at the bottom you’ll feel more like you’re climbing than hiking. Loose rocks and giant boulders seek to thwart you, but, with careful steps and a helping hand, there’s nothing insurmountable. And some of those giant boulders make great seats for a mid-ramble respite.
While it’s easy to focus on the sweat in your eyes and throbbing legs, take time to appreciate the emptiness. Some two million people visit Grand Teton National Park each year yet, at most, you’re sharing this hike with half-a-dozen. And Ramshorn Lake, near the canyon’s western end, is big enough each group of hikers can have a whole secluded shore all to itself.
If you want to make the most of this hike, bring a therm-a-rest or two with you. There’s nothing you’ll want to do at the lake more than lay down, soak in the sun and enjoy a secret snooze.
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